31 July
Back in Djenné finally. Went looking for a horse at the weekend, as promised. The 'commandant'of a Fulani village a few kilometres away wanted to sell a white horse, which was made out to be a magnificent creature. According to local tradition a white horse posesses magic qualities. When the rains failed to materialize last year, the population of the village wanted to buy the horse in order to sacrifice it. The commandant refused. Alas the poor albino didn't quite live up to its formidable reputation as I think you will agree...

The rains have started, but rather too modestly. The air is heavy and pregnant with the promise of rain, and there are powerful dust storms. On the way back from the abortive horse expedition we sheltered in a little hut with a posse of adorable children who made us tea.

My little mud hotel is taking shape. Tomorrow I am going with my gardener Ishmael to buy a donkey, for more prosaic reasons: he will transport the mud cart back and forth to the river bank for the building work.