As I left I crossed the courtyard where great vats of steaming and delicious smelling rice was being prepared. The smiling women insisted on giving me meat and rice in a plastic bag as I left, and I munched on this as I walked back through the sandy streets of Youboucaina, passing the ‘Maison Blanche’ youth club where Hip Hop from the Ivory Coast emanating from a ghetto blaster was making an unsuceessful bid for attention and modernity...